It’s been a while since my last blog post. May 23th, the Dutch Bouldering Championship was held in Delfts Bleau. After three qualifying rounds, I placed myself 10th out of 12 for the championships. With mixed feelings I went to the competition. I was happy to be in, but my injured hand was still very weak and painful (injured in the last qualifying round). It didn’t heal up as quick as I had hoped and therefore I barely climbed the month in advance.
Semifinal and final
In isolation I couldn’t hold on to crimps and I told myself just to enjoy the climbing. Of course I was hoping for big slopers and slabs. And yes, we started with a slab in the semi finals. I’m pretty good on slabs most of the times, so I knew I should make sure to climb this one quick. This would be my chance to score! Unfortunately I slipped a couple of times on a tiny foothold. Got the problem in my 6h go. I was pretty disappointed and I was convinced this was my only chance. The second problem: a big overhang with tiny crimps. I didn’t have any expectations. Maybe the only expectation was not to get far on it. And what happened? I flashed it. Crazy. I could get so much weight on my feet with many good heel-hooks, that I almost didn’t even feel my hand! The last move was pretty hard for me, I could feel I lost some power in my shoulders. But I stayed with it and topped. I was super happy with it. The third problem had big slopers and I though it wouldn’t be too hard. But it definitely was! Too hard for me and all the others, except Nikki van Bergen. The last problem was super cool. A jump and some difficult slopers to the top. Unfortunately I couldn’t stick the jump. I got closer and closer every time, but could’t manage to make it.
I was really satisfied. It felt so good to be climbing again! And I qualified for finals 4th place. Of course I was hoping to get to finals, but I really didn’t expect this at all. The finals problems were tricky and super hard! I did my best, tried hard and had fun. I ended up 5th place. Most of the people didn’t seem really happy for me. They expected more I guess… But (for the first time) I was really happy with my result! I was pretty proud and happy.
Getting rid of injuries
Of course I would be even happier if I would be totally fit without any injuries. So I decided after nationals to quit climbing for a while and heal up properly. My hand is at this moment still not fully recovered. I figured that all the injuries I have had last year, are the result of climbing sessions whereby I was trying too hard while my body was too weak. Every time I got injured, I needed some time off. Directly after the weeks without climbing, I attended a competition in which I had to try hard. With of course more chance to injure myself, which happened. At first I was complaining why my body was letting me down every time. What was wrong with me? At the moment when it dawned to me that I just had to make sure my body got stronger in order to avoid injuries, I decided to sign up for a fitness gym. I’m trying my antagonist muscles and getting my climbing muscles stronger. I’m also working my core. The routine I’m doing now every other day is:
15 minutes running
3x max. pull ups
3x max. chin ups
3x 15 reps chest fly
3x 10 reps bench press
3x max push ups
3x max tuck knees front lever pull ups
3x 15 reps one-arm elevated rows
3x 15 reps one-arm lat push down
finishing up with an abs workout
Wannabe Street Fitness Girl
And because I’m a wannabe street fitness girl, I sometimes do some of the exercises in my backyard 🙂 Getting some nice fresh air and a place for Lizzie the Wizzie to hang out. To measure my progression, I made a video today! The pull ups are easier in the gym, because my knees are getting super low to the ground which make it harder to get my tension right. The other exercises I’m doing, should be the first steps towards a front lever. I find it very difficult to keep the right tension in my body with those exercises. I really feel it in my upper back! However, I made some progression already! Check it out.