The Teva Mountain Games 2012 were awesome (despite the rain on day two and the replacement of the climbing wall out of downtown Vail)!! I enjoyed the weekend with my friends and some new people!
My second World Cup was interesting! Where should I start… First of all, I’m happy with my 26th place out of 41. I didn’t expect to end that high in the ranking at all and I’m still a little bit surprised because I still think I didn’t climb well at all.
At 9.30 I had to be in the isolation. Pascal and I were walking to the climbing wall, presuming that the isolation would be there somewhere. Before we got there I asked two organizers if we were walking in the right direction, just in case. Turned out that we had to walk the opposite direction, to the center of Vail! He brought me there, so I had a good morning walk and was just in time in the isolation. I spent most time with the girls of the USA climbing team, including Tyler and Jesse my new local training buddy’s.
With one hour left on the clock I began warming-up a little bit. After a while I noticed that I couldn’t get my muscles strong. Sometimes it takes a while before the tension appears, but it just wasn’t there this day. I felt heavy and couldn’t do (relatively) easy moves of boulder problems. That was a bummer, because I was really psyched to climb! I decided to keep focused and wait for the adrenaline, that always make me stronger.
Because the climbing wall was moved to a field on the East side of Vail (due to construction works at the usual spot) the athletes were shuttled two by two with a car from the isolation to the wall. When I arrived I heard cheering which helped to get me a bit more into the competition mood.
Problem #1 was on the right side of the wall. I was climbing super slow to be sure that my feet wouldn’t slip away and I was making the right decisions. Pascal and my US friends were cheering super loud for me, which helped me a lot! Thank you guys, you are awesome! I could rest pretty much everywhere in this problem which made it easy to flash this one. I was surprised but happy! Same start as my first World Cup in Eindhoven. A first flash gives a good motivation for the coming problems.
Problem #2 made me confused and frustrated 🙂 When I saw the problem I was not sure how to start this one. I saw no specified footholds even though I was told of a new rule that all footholds should be taped… I asked if there were footholds and the judge told me that I could use anything I wanted. I noticed that the first handhold (which you should get with two hands) was to high to get grip on while standing on the ground… Then it got to me, I had to do it dynamic. Tried it with one foot on a foothold without success. Then I started running, tried to compress the big hold with both hands, but failed over and over again. I was getting closer at the end, but couldn’t make it. Such a bummer, because the rest of the problem looked cool to me. I felt ashamed for this jumping, struggling and falling but let it go when the five minutes were over and got excited for the third problem.
Problem #3 was a funny problem that you could start in two different ways. In my first try I got into the problem facing the wall, but I immediately felt that I wanted to turn face forward to the crowd to get more balance for the jump to a big hold. So a started the other way around on the second try, found my balance and jumped. I didn’t realize that I was getting close and suddenly I felt my hands on the hold! Surprised as I was I found myself swinging and started thinking what had to do next.. A little bit late I remembered what to do and tried to change hands for the next move. It took a while and when I finally got it and know that I had to campus the next move I couldn’t even pull myself up anymore. Jumped two more times, but couldn’t campus anymore. This was a big bummer for me, because I’m normally not that bad in campussing at all, but at this moment I just couldn’t find the strength for it. I was glad that I did the dyno tough, that’s something I have more trouble with normally.
Problem #4 was nice as well. I got to the bonus hold in my second go (tried a heel hook in my first try that didn’t stick) but didn’t swing my right foot to match. Instead of I tried to positioning my hand on the big bonus sloper, but failed and fall of. Don’t know if I was able to the the rest of the problem tough. I was still feeling weak. Resting longer between tries didn’t help so I think that it wasn’t my strongest day.
Problem #5 had a difficult start for me. That gave me a pumped left arm, but I still managed to start the problem a couple of times. It was a funny balancy, sloper problem. I couldn’t find the solution to get to the bonus hold.
It is a motivating and tempting idea that if I could have done another problem, I would have entered into the semi-finals. Something I didn’t dare to think of before. After this world cup I’m super motivated to train and yesterday Hans gave me some good training exercises.
The coming two (or three) weeks I’m going to take a rest from climbing (due to a long lasting finger injury that only got worse). So i’m going to train my body instead to get physically stronger and hope to climb after this rest without pain and injuries!
After watching the exciting bouldering finals and some awesome slackliners on Saturday we did some outdoor bouldering on Sunday. I went with Pascal, Hans, Mike, Andy and Eevi to Mt Evans.
We were all strugling with the long walk up to get to the boulders (except our friend Mike, he’s super fit and walked four fourteeners the day before!!!). There were some beautiful boulder problems and we had a great time before the long walk back. Unfortunately I didn’t make pictures that day, but I’m sure we are going back there and then I’ll make some!