Dust 2012

Photographer:: Bram Berkien

I‘ve acquired a taste for giving my best on competitions. Yesterday I participated at the yearly Dust bouldering comp, organized by Monk. The competition setup existed of ten (!) categories! I signed up for the category “female 7a and harder”. After warming up, I soon found out that all the 7a’s were super difficult for me. I didn’t feel weak, so I concluded that the 7’s were really hard this time. I needed to change my goals (topping eight 7a boulders) and went for all the 6c and 6c+ problems. That felt much easier and I topped all those problems, except one of them.

The setting was nice. At this moment I remember some problems exactly! That says a lot about my fascination about them. The nicest problem I did was the orange 6c+ at the training wall. Starting with a shoulder movement to the right and ending with a dynamic movement to the finish hold. Many problems turned into projects (for me and others) because of the finish movements/holds. There was for example a  sixth grade problem at the competition wall where many people were projecting because they got stuck at the last far movement to the left! Next to it there was a lime 7a, the last problem I tried yesterday to replace one 6c on my list. I was working in it with Rachel. I thought the hardest move was in the beginning, but when I found myself at the last sloper hold with my left hand, I couldn’t match! I was standing there, searching for my feet to get my balance right but I couldn’t find it! Such a bummer, so close to my first 7a of that day! Later I realized that I could have put my feet on the biggest lime hold there was, but I didn’t noticed it! Oops, maybe I have to start wearing glasses when bouldering? After that close top, I couldn’t pass the first difficult move anymore. Finally, when I changed the method (a heelhook to the left instead of a toe to the right) I could climb to the last hold again. This time I put my feet carefully at the super big lime starting hold beneath me and could match easily. So happy with this one. After this success I couldn’t motivate myself to do any other boulders and I was happy with my scorecard.
1x 7a
6x 6c+
1x 6c

While enjoying beers with Marjolijn, Nick, Marta, Emiel, Viola and Sebastiaan I realized that I might make it to the podium. Vera told me that she didn’t take part in the female category, because she found it more challenging to join the men’s category. I knew that Rachel found it also difficult to boulder 7a and probably had only one as well and I even saw the strong Belgian Magali struggling in 6c’s. Magali won in the female category 7a and harder, I ended up second (!) and Rachel third. My price was a Moon Fingerboard, something I can use very hard because my fingers are not yet really strong. I cannot hold myself while hanging on bi-doigts for example. Thanks MOoNk!!

Results:

Men 7a and harder
1. Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen
1. Tim Reuser
3. Remmelt Dirksen

Women 7a and harder
1. Magali Hayen
2. Mirthe van Liere
3. Rachel Nilwik

Men to 6c
1. Danny Verbinnen
2. Mathijs Koster
3. Andrew Fedorov

Women to 6c
1. Maaike Krikke
2. Bouchra Jemla
3. Yannicke Goris

Men to 6a
1. Rudy Wagemans
2. Dave van Hooren
3. Wim van de Kerkhof

Women to 6a
1. Lieve Cornelissen
2. Fieke Gravesteijn
3. Judith Sander

Men all you can boulder
1. Truong Ngo
2. Elko Schellingerhout
3. Tim Reuser

Women all you can boulder
1. Magali Hayen
2. Rachel Nilwik
3. Yannicke Goris

Best DJ of the day
Floriaan Drewes





My first place by 100% bouldering has yielded me an Edelrit voucher. I’ve chosen for the Edelrid Heron rope! Cannot wait to use it outdoor!!

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