Four things were on my mind last months: find some work, follow my training scheme, get informed about my wrist injury and climb like I never did before! The first thing is not really interesting to discuss, the only thing I can say is that I’m writing a lot about sports and climbing because I’m working to be a freelance writer!
The second thing is a little bit more interesting. I’ve noticed that I really need strong (self)discipline to keep on training. The first two weeks I kept myself to the plan, but didn’t do my exercises as hard as I could. On the one hand I think that’s okay, because I want to be sure that I don’t get myself into trouble with injuries. But I’m also aware of the fact that I can and have to do a little bit more and a little bit harder. Another thing that didn’t went as I planned is the timeline! I’m still doing exercises that belong to the strength/power block instead of starting with the anaerobic endurance! The reason why I keep stabbing in the strength block is because I’m on my peak right now!
Totally unsuspected I’m climbing better/harder then I did before and I know that I’ll feel the opposite after this peak. So I’m totally grabbing this chance to climb the hardest routes in the gym. This means that I’m climbing 7b’s almost onsight and 7b+’s in a couple of tries. I’m really motivated to climb another 7b+ and then start working in 8a and 8b because after that I’ve climbed all the routes there are! Haha. How do I know that? Because we have a new thing going on in our gym, an online guidebook of all the routes where you can keep your own ticklist. There is an overall ranking and it is easy to see what grades you’ve climbed most. This list made me aware that my onsight level is too low in my own opinion. I imposed on myself that I have to do all 7a’s onsight. I’m pushing my plastic fantastic indoor climbing limit and it feels great! Right know I’m getting really excited to try some hard routes on real rock! Let the sun shine!!!
|The routes I did and my appreciation about them|
|The routes I still have to do|
Since last September I’ve been experiencing a stinging pain on the outside (ulnar) of my left wrist, I went to see a doctor for some more information. First he made an X-ray to be sure that there was nothing broken. After that I had two MRI’s. One with contrast agent in the joints of my wrist, one with the contrast agent trough an intravenous. The last one was required because the first one didn’t show everything. The outcome of this examination was that one of the ligaments in my wrist is damaged and has some fluid around the ligaments. The physiotherapist also investigated my wrist through ultrasound and noticed that my ulnar nerve was also a little bit inflamed. From now on I’m doing some exercises to stabilize my wrist and make my surrounding muscles stronger.
|MRI of my wrist
Click on this picture for a funny animation of my wrist
What about this very last week? Before we are going to enjoy the Christmas and New Year festivities we are heading to the climbing gym in Tilbug tomorrow! We’ve been there last week and the gym has a really cool combination for toprope, lead, boulder and training facilities.